Duke of Cornwall

The Duke of Cornwall - Brest and Dournenez

After much preparation we finally left the Royal Dart Yacht Club pontoons in Kingwear on the Friday evening at 7 pm to cross the channel to attend the Rallies at Brest and Dournenez. We had originally intended to leave the night before to arrive in time for the Friday evening Crew Party - an amazing event where the organisers feed and water about 5,000 crew in true Gallic style. Unfortunately, it had been blowing hard from the North West most of that week and was still quite fresh all day Thursday, so it was decided to delay our departure until the Friday evening.

On clearing Start Bay there was still a confused sea which brought the odd wave aboard, and kept the windscreen wipers busy. This gradually eased and by the early morning watches we were running dry and comfortably at 8 knots, with the Gardners at 860 rpm thundering away below. Visibility was good as we crossed the shipping lanes with only two course alterations to avoid oncoming ships. Dawn saw us clear of the lanes and soon after, the coast of France appeared in the morning sun. We were 15 minutes early for our ETA of 11 am at Le Four lighthouse to carry the full tide down the channel. but were soon being sluiced down in company with many other boats destined for Brest, in calm and sunny weather. We headed up the Raz de Brest with schooners, square riggers and yachts all enjoying the freshening breeze and sunshine, converging on the port entrance. We decided to have a good look around the harbour and see the various moored vessels fiom seaward before taking up our berth below the bridge in the Naval Dockyard of Penfold with the other lifeboats. We berthed alongside the 'Frank Spiller Locke' and were greeted by Colin and Jan Stunner amid various French lifeboats of different eras. A quick tip ashore to replenish

victuals and to stock up with wine, which was soon consumed that evening by the assembled company. This was my fifth trip to the Fete at Brest, in differing vessels and the second time for the Duke. There was a great collection of French lifeboats on show, close to a large stand sponsored by the SBNF - many more than before - several of these lifeboats were taking local dignitaries out for trips and there was quite a lot of comings and goings with the usual Gallic flare! In all, we encountered 14 other lifeboats of all ages from an early motor lifeboat from Ploumanac to the latest experimental bulbous bowed creation We visited and were entertained by many of the French crews and did our share in return. The older French lifeboats weren't dissimilar to the later Watson class but had very angular wheelhouses that looked to me somewhat flimsy. The French crews seemed very interested in our Gardners and fascinated by their size; most of their boats were powered by much smaller though equally powered engines. Brest proved to be as colourfi~Ia s ever but more commercialised than before. There were many more retail outlets and less nautical attractions (apart from the assembled fleet). For some reason there was even a farmyard complete with animals as one of the major attractions.

The last night was Bastille Day and we were treated to a tremendous firework display. synchronised with Gallic music. It was a fantastic show in whlch several of the French lifeboats participated. It was time to move on and the fleet sailed south to Dournenez. It was a magnificent sight with every kind of craft at sea, from rowing boat to square rigger. The day started rather dull and cloudy as we paraded along the south of the Raz. Off Camaret we came across a British yacht with a defective engine and, with practically no wind, had been caught up with the Westward bound fleet. We hove him a line and towed him to a mooring off Camaret. Rejoining the fleet and a bottle of whisky better off: we motored south amid the spectacle and rounded the Cape de Chevre into the bay of Dournenez. It was as if we had entered another climate - the sea sparkled and the sun shone as we headed towards the to\m of Dournenez.

We found a berth just off the quay in a perfect spot and soon had several yachts tied up alongside us. One couple introduced themselves as part of the present crew of the Lizard lifeboat and I produced our book of photographs collected over the years. They managed to identify many of the crew and were even related to some of them! A few peaceful days ensued while we explored the town, watched the boats coming and going and probably drank too much. The Festival ended on the Sunday and we set sail that morning with the intention of spending some time at Ushant. The visibility became very poor towards the island and by buoy-hopping, use of GPS and radar, we found our way to a mooring off Lampoul. After a wet ride ashore that evening we explored the town and were surprised to find there was much more to it than expected. We had an excellent supper ashore, and during the course of the evening discovered it was Lifeboat Day the following day.Ashore, after breakfast, we were greeted by the local crew with large glasses of Pastis thrust into our hands. It was all happening -they had launched the lifeboat and were busy preparing food and bar-bq in the lifeboat house.

A stage had been erected and tables and stalls abounded. We decided a brisk walk and stock-up of provisions was needed before going back to the quay where there was much music. food and merrymaking in progress. Nothing could be bought without using the local EUSA'S exchanged for EURO'S and only valid for the day! We spent the afternoon sampling the local vintages and came away with various garments emblazoned with the local insignia Unfortunately we had to get back so reluctantly set sail late afternoon before the fete really got going. We came in close to the quay and waved goodbye and set off back across channel. I would thoroughly recommend the Ushant as a stop whilst cruising. It's open to the west but in calm conditions or wind in any other direction is a safe haven. There are numerous large mooring buoys near the quay which appeared to be free to visitors.

We certainly will be going back. On our way out of the bay we were buzzed by two French lifeboats who had been taking people out for trips around the bay. As the light faded we left the island astern and settled down to a night passage in almost perfect weather. It was calm and a little hazy as we crossed the shipping lanes and headed towards Start Point. We picked out the South Devon coast soon after it was light and steamed in towards Dartmouth. The tide was away in the harbour but there was just enough water for us to creep up Old Mill Creek and get back into the shed Almost as soon as we had squared up she was aground and we spent a couple of hours de-stowing her and washing her down. It had been a really successful trip and we had had a great time.

It was good to see the French lifeboats and talk with their crews. The Duke behaved perfectly and only drank 140 gallons - probably matching our consumption .

The next Brest is 2008. It would be good to see a few more British lifeboats there and not to be outnumbered by the French!

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